Lately, every morning when I woke up, my wife's computer would have started up by itself from hibernation. In delving into the mystery, there are at least three mechanisms for waking:
Devices set to wake the computer
BIOS Setting
Windows Media Center update
The first thing I did was look at the BIOS settings. I found that the BIOS on this motherboard, an Asus P8H61, would not let me enter setup by pressing the DEL key on a USB keyboard. Never throw anything away! I had a PS/2 keyboard in inventory and that worked. I went into the APM section of the Advanced Tab in the BIOS and reviewed the various device settings. All were disabled. Next, from a Command Line in Windows 7, I checked which devices were set to allow waking from sleep/hibernation. The command to do this is:powercfg -devicequery wake_armedThis returned the following list: USB Root Hub HID compliant mouse Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller HID Keyboard Device ASMedia XHCI ControllerTo reset these devices: Start\Computer\Properties\Device Manager Right-click on each device to get into its own properties (you may have to do several for the USB Root Hub). Click on Change Settings. You'll be prompted for the Administrator password. Click on the Power Management tab. Uncheck the "allow this device to wake the computer". Problem solved!I also checked on the Windows Media Center Update just to be sure. Click on this link for a how-to.
I really like the Modern Devices LCD serial backpack kit based on the work of P.H. Anderson. These boards allow you to connect a standard HD44780-controlled LCD to an arduino with just +V, GND and Tx from the arduino. The command set is easy to use and fairly broad. The standard build on these kits connects the 117 to an LCD with female headers from the 117. For space constrained projects, though, I'd like the attached 117 as thin as possible. I took a hint from the way Sparkfun implemented their version of the backpack. They soldered the backpack directly to the LCD headers, but not pushed all the way down. This way, the backpack is less thick, but won't short out by contacting the LCD board. I emulated this by using a piece of closed-cell foam as a shim between the 117 and the LCD. I had to pull the foam out in pieces when done, but it worked. The picture below shows the direct solder version on the right, the female header version on the left.
My wife needed a faster computer but was space constrained where she could locate the box. The solution was to get a Silverstone SG05 mini-itx case , which included a 120mm front fan and a 300W small form factor PSU. The motherboard I used was an Asus P8H61-I Rev 3 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item%3DN82E16813131727&ved=0CBkQFj...) with an Intel i3-2120 Sandy Bridge processor.
Disassembling the combined optical drive and hard drive bay.
The space available for the motherboard.
Tight space in screwing down the mobo.
Motherboard with stock Intel HSF (plenty of clearance in my particular build) and memory installed.
Cable routing nightmare. I only installed a hard drive, no optical drive, and it was still a chore to arrange the cables from the PSU.
The build was actually straightforward, perhaps one of the easiest I've done lately. The box, with Ubuntu 10.04.2 LTS installed, runs fast and quiet. Recommended. Sent from my iPhone
Catching up on documenting old projects, this one from 2009.The inspiration for this project was a posting from the good guys at NerdKits. Humberto Evans gives a great tutorial on a Valentine's Day blinking heart, check it out along with the other great entries on their site. I decided to try and make my own without the kit offered from the NerdKits folks. After a little research, I found alsmost all of the code I needed was available from Paul Badger of Modern Device, famous for the RBBB Arduino clone and other great products.
The actual base is just a sturdy piece of cardboard cut in the shape of a heart. There are heart templates easily found with a google search. I made an easel stand with another piece of cardboard properly cut at an angle. The code is running on a Modern Device RBBB Arduino, powering the LEDs through a black mini-breadboard that contains current-limiting resistors for the LEDS. The RBBB also prints a message on a 2x16 serial LCD. The 5mm red LEDs are poked through the base, hot-glued to the back. The wires are covered in heat shrink and then fastened in bundles with cable ties to make them neat. The tricky part is keeping all of the LEDs in the proper order for sequencing the display. You may want to write down on the back of the heart which LED goes to which pin on the RBBB. Here's the code, hope posterous doesn't mess it up! /* PWMallPins.pde Paul Badger 2007 A program to illustrate one way to implement a PWM loop. This program fades LED's on Arduino digital pins 2 through 13 in a sinewave pattern. It could be modified to also modulate pins 0 & 1 and the analog pins. I didn't modulate pins 0 & 1 just because of the hassle of disconnecting the LEDs on the RX and TX pins (0 & 1). The PWM loop, as written, operates at about 175 HZ and is flicker-free. The trick to this of course is not doing too much math in between the PWM loop cycles. Long delays between the loops are going to show up as flicker. This is true especially of "Serial.print" debug statements which seem to hog the processor during transmission. Shorter (timewise) statements will just dim the maximum brightness of the LED's. There are a couple of lines of code (commented out) that implement a potentiometer as a speed control for the dimming. How it works: The PWM loop turns on all LED's whose values are greater than 0 at the start of the PWM loop. It then turns off the LED's as the loop variable is equal to the channel's PWM modulation value. Because the values are limited to 255 (just by the table), all LED's are turned off at the end of the PWM loop. This has the side effect of making any extra math, sensor reading. etc. will increase the "off" period of the LED's duty cycle. Consequently the brightest LED value (255), which is supposed to represent a "100%" duty cycle (on all the time), dosesn't really do that. More math, sensor reading etc will increase the "off time", dimming the LED's max brightness. You can (somewhat) make up for this dimming with smaller series resistors, since LED's can be overrated if they aren't on all of the time. The up side of this arrangement is that the LED's stay flicker free. Note that this program could easily be used to modulate motor speeds with the addition of driver transistors or MOSFET's. */ // random fading in and out of // christmas tree lights#define NR_OF_LIGHTS 12 int pins[NR_OF_LIGHTS] = {2, 8, 6, 4, 12, 13, 10, 9, 7, 5, 3, 11 };int values[NR_OF_LIGHTS]; int steps[NR_OF_LIGHTS]; #define NR_OF_FADESTEPS 4 int fadesteps[NR_OF_FADESTEPS] = { 192, 128, 64, 0 }; int fade_delay = 30; // millisec int fade_cycles = 1000;int nr_of_blinks = 2; int blink_delay = 400; //millisec int effect = 1;int randomlights[NR_OF_LIGHTS]; bool chosenlights[NR_OF_LIGHTS];int first_time = 1; long time; // variable for speed debug float pwmSpeed[14] = { 0, 0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.9, .9, .8, .5, 1.2, 1.37, 1.47, .3, 3.2}; // these constants set the rate of dimming int pwmVal[14]; // PWM values for 12 channels - 0 & 1 included but not used float pwmFloats[14]; int i, j, k, l, x, y, z, bufsize, pot; // variables for various countersunsigned char sinewave[] = //256 values { 0x80,0x83,0x86,0x89,0x8c,0x8f,0x92,0x95,0x98,0x9c,0x9f,0xa2,0xa5,0xa8,0xab,0xae, 0xb0,0xb3,0xb6,0xb9,0xbc,0xbf,0xc1,0xc4,0xc7,0xc9,0xcc,0xce,0xd1,0xd3,0xd5,0xd8, 0xda,0xdc,0xde,0xe0,0xe2,0xe4,0xe6,0xe8,0xea,0xec,0xed,0xef,0xf0,0xf2,0xf3,0xf5, 0xf6,0xf7,0xf8,0xf9,0xfa,0xfb,0xfc,0xfc,0xfd,0xfe,0xfe,0xff,0xff,0xff,0xff,0xff, 0xff,0xff,0xff,0xff,0xff,0xff,0xfe,0xfe,0xfd,0xfc,0xfc,0xfb,0xfa,0xf9,0xf8,0xf7, 0xf6,0xf5,0xf3,0xf2,0xf0,0xef,0xed,0xec,0xea,0xe8,0xe6,0xe4,0xe2,0xe0,0xde,0xdc, 0xda,0xd8,0xd5,0xd3,0xd1,0xce,0xcc,0xc9,0xc7,0xc4,0xc1,0xbf,0xbc,0xb9,0xb6,0xb3, 0xb0,0xae,0xab,0xa8,0xa5,0xa2,0x9f,0x9c,0x98,0x95,0x92,0x8f,0x8c,0x89,0x86,0x83, 0x80,0x7c,0x79,0x76,0x73,0x70,0x6d,0x6a,0x67,0x63,0x60,0x5d,0x5a,0x57,0x54,0x51, 0x4f,0x4c,0x49,0x46,0x43,0x40,0x3e,0x3b,0x38,0x36,0x33,0x31,0x2e,0x2c,0x2a,0x27, 0x25,0x23,0x21,0x1f,0x1d,0x1b,0x19,0x17,0x15,0x13,0x12,0x10,0x0f,0x0d,0x0c,0x0a, 0x09,0x08,0x07,0x06,0x05,0x04,0x03,0x03,0x02,0x01,0x01,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00, 0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x01,0x01,0x02,0x03,0x03,0x04,0x05,0x06,0x07,0x08, 0x09,0x0a,0x0c,0x0d,0x0f,0x10,0x12,0x13,0x15,0x17,0x19,0x1b,0x1d,0x1f,0x21,0x23, 0x25,0x27,0x2a,0x2c,0x2e,0x31,0x33,0x36,0x38,0x3b,0x3e,0x40,0x43,0x46,0x49,0x4c, 0x4f,0x51,0x54,0x57,0x5a,0x5d,0x60,0x63,0x67,0x6a,0x6d,0x70,0x73,0x76,0x79,0x7c }; void setup(){ pinMode(1, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); Serial.print("?vmv4"); Serial.print("?G216");
DDRD=0xFC; // direction variable for port D - make em all outputs except serial pins 0 & 1 DDRB=0xFF; // direction variable for port B - all outputs }void fade_routine() { // time = millis(); // this was to test the loop speed // for (z=0; z<1000; z++){ // ditto // pot = analogRead(0); // this implemented a potentiometer speed control to control speed of fading for (y=0; y<14; y++){ // calculate one new pwm value every time through the control loop j = (j + 1) % 12; // calculate a new j every time - modulo operator makes it cycle back to 0 after 11 k = j + 2; // add 2 tp tje result - this yields a cycle of 2 to 13 for the channel (pin) select numbers pwmFloats[k] = (pwmFloats[k] + pwmSpeed[k]); // pwmFloats[k] = (pwmFloats[k] + ((pwmSpeed[k] * 15 * (float)pot) / 1023)); // implements potentiometer speed control - see line above if (pwmFloats[k] >= 256){ // wrop around sinewave table index values that are larger than 256 pwmFloats[k] = pwmFloats[k] - 256; } else if (pwmFloats[k] < 0){ pwmFloats[k] = pwmFloats[k] + 256; // wrop around sinewave table index values that are less than 0 } pwmVal[k] = sinewave[(int)pwmFloats[k]]; // convert the float value to an integer and get the value out of the sinewave index } PORTD = 0xFC; // all outputs except serial pins 0 & 1 PORTB = 0xFF; // turn on all pins of ports D & Bfor (z=0; z<3; z++){ // this loop just adds some more repetitions of the loop below to cut down on the time overhead of loop above // increase this until you start to preceive flicker - then back off - decrease for more responsive sensor input reads for (x=0; x<256; x++){ for( i=2; i<14; i++){ // start with 2 to avoid serial pins if (x == pwmVal[i]){ if (i < 8){ // corresponds to PORTD // bitshift a one into the proper bit then reverse the whole byte // equivalent to the line below but around 4 times faster // digitalWrite(i, LOW); PORTD = PORTD & (~(1 << i)); } else{ PORTB = PORTB & (~(1 << (i-8))); // corresponds to PORTB - same as digitalWrite(pin, LOW); - on Port B pins } } } } } }void setAllLights(int value) { for (int i = 0; i < NR_OF_LIGHTS; i++) { digitalWrite(pins[i], value); delay(150); digitalWrite(pins[i],0); } for (int i = NR_OF_LIGHTS; i>0; i--) { digitalWrite(pins[i], value); delay(150); digitalWrite(pins[i],0); }
for (int i = 6, j=7; i>0; i--, j++) { digitalWrite(pins[i], value); digitalWrite(pins[j], value); delay(150); digitalWrite(pins[i],0); digitalWrite(pins[j],0); } for (int i = 0, j = 12; i < 7; i++, j--) { digitalWrite(pins[i], value); digitalWrite(pins[j], value); delay(150); digitalWrite(pins[i],0); digitalWrite(pins[j],0); } }/** * */ void blinkAll() { for (int i = 0; i < nr_of_blinks; i++) { setAllLights(1); delay(blink_delay); // setAllLights(0); // delay(blink_delay); } } void runningLight(int startvalue) { setAllLights(startvalue); for (int j = 0; j < 2; j++) { randomize(); for (int i = 0; i < NR_OF_LIGHTS; i++) { analogWrite(pins[randomlights[i]], 255 - startvalue); delay(200); analogWrite(pins[randomlights[i]], startvalue); } } }void randomize() { for (int i = 0; i < NR_OF_LIGHTS; i++) { chosenlights[i] = false; } //first one always ok int r = (int)random(NR_OF_LIGHTS); randomlights[0] = r; chosenlights[r] = true; //next 4 for (int i = 1; i < 5; i++) { while (true) { r = (int)random(NR_OF_LIGHTS); if (chosenlights[r] == false) { break; } } randomlights[i] = r; chosenlights[r] = true; } //last one for (int i = 0; i < NR_OF_LIGHTS; i++) { if (chosenlights[i] == false) { randomlights[5] = i; break; } } } void loop(){
DDRD=0xFC; // direction variable for port D - make em all outputs except serial pins 0 & 1 DDRB=0xFF; // direction variable for port B - all outputs for (int j = 0; j < fade_cycles; j++) { fade_routine(); } if (first_time) { Serial.print("?f"); //clear screen delay(1000); Serial.print("Happy Valentines"); Serial.print(" Love Bob "); first_time = 0; }
When you double-click a photo in Picasa, the photo editing features are available. Included in the editing tools is text. A hidden feature of text is the ability to create arrows with the Wingdings font. These arrows can be rotated, moved and resized easily. I learned this from the following Picasa forum entry: http://www.google.com/support/forum/p/Picasa/thread?tid=1f0325178bdbec6b&hl=en
There are lots of instructions in web pages and videos for swapping out your old iPod nano battery. I sourced this one from ConsoleZombie: . The instructions in this video describe how to separate the bottom metal case from the top black material by starting at the side of the case. I thought it might be easier to pry open the bottom near the USB connector. Unfortunately, I started prying at what I thought was the metal seam separating the black from the silver part of the connector. Wrong! That is a single joined piece. You have to start prying at the bottom seam of the USB connector. You may be able to see a few tiny gouges in this picture. That's where I made my mistake...
I have to admit I'm not very good at desoldering filled in vias on circuit boards. I have a success ratio of about 50% so far. Sometimes these are adjacent to ground planes which make them especially difficult to desolder. The last major fail I had, I applied too much heat and actually ruined the solder pad hole so that no solder would adhere to it. One tip I found on a forum was to use a mini drill, also known as a pin vise, to drill out these kinds of holes. This is about the same labor effort as desoldering, but I find I have much more control, especially if I use the smallest possible drill bit in the set to start and work up as needed. The mini drill I use is a cheap ($4.99 as of this writing) Harbor Freight model. I've used it successfully on three desoldering projects and haven't failed yet. Here's a picture of the Harbor Freight 6 piece mini drill set:
On an XP machine, had AVG Free installed and decided to change to Microsoft Security Essentials (MSSE). Uninstalled AVG with Add/Remove Programs and installed MSSE. That worked for awhile, until the first MSSE upgrade (not update) failed. Uninstalled MSSE, installed AVG 2011. AVG started throwing an error related to avgrsx.exe and MSVCR80.DLL. Found out that AVG has become similar to Norton in that you need a removal tool (http://www.avg.com/us-en/download-tools) to completely uninstall it. In my case, the removal tool triggered a restart, then continued on to good finish after the reboot. I remembered one of the fixes for the MSSE problem was to completely uninstall any previously-installed anti-virus software and then try an MSSE install again. So I did. Worked fine, running the AVG removal tool was the fix. Sent from my iPhone
-Channel width to 40MHz -Frame burst to enable -Preamble to short -Shortslot override to short -WMM to enable -No acknowledgement to disable -CTS protection to auto -Left/right antenna to auto -Network mode to NG-Mixed -ACK timing to 0 or 300 -Make sure security stays at WPA2-AES -Select wireless channel manually picking the least used one
Used Unetbootin to create a bootable USB flash drive of Jolicloud, a cloud-based version of Ubuntu. Jolicloud has its own USB creator app, but on Jolicloud 1.1 that version stops with the message "No drive selected". Unetbootin works well enough, but even that took me three tries. I was writing over a Ubuntu 8.10 install on the flash drive. What finally worked was using fdisk to remove the existing partition (vfat) and create an ext3 partition, followed by mkfs.ext3 /dev/sdb1 in this case. See the docs at: http://unetbootin.sourceforge.net/